Notice: Function _load_textdomain_just_in_time was called incorrectly. Translation loading for the head-footer-code domain was triggered too early. This is usually an indicator for some code in the plugin or theme running too early. Translations should be loaded at the init action or later. Please see Debugging in WordPress for more information. (This message was added in version 6.7.0.) in /var/www/html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 6114 Notice: Function _load_textdomain_just_in_time was called incorrectly. Translation loading for the wordpress-seo domain was triggered too early. This is usually an indicator for some code in the plugin or theme running too early. Translations should be loaded at the init action or later. Please see Debugging in WordPress for more information. (This message was added in version 6.7.0.) in /var/www/html/wp-includes/functions.php on line 6114 Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /var/www/html/wp-includes/functions.php:6114) in /var/www/html/wp-includes/rest-api/class-wp-rest-server.php on line 1893 {"id":360,"date":"2014-02-14T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2014-02-13T21:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/localhost:8071\/dugumlenmis-hikayeler-3-terzilik\/"},"modified":"2014-02-14T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2014-02-13T21:00:00","slug":"dugumlenmis-hikayeler-3-terzilik","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.meraklisiicin.com\/blog\/dugumlenmis-hikayeler-3-terzilik\/","title":{"rendered":"D\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlenmi\u015f Hikayeler 3: Terzilik"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Terzilik\" Birka\u00e7 nesil \u00f6ncesinden insanlar anlat\u0131rlar; “Bizim zaman\u0131m\u0131zda \u00f6yle d\u00fckkanlar, ma\u011fazalar yoktu. Evde diki\u015f bilen varsa o dikerdi, yoksa terzilere gidip kuma\u015f se\u00e7ip \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc ald\u0131r\u0131p diktirirdik,” diye… \u015eimdilerde sadece gelinlik veya mezuniyet elbisesi diktirmek i\u00e7in, veya pa\u00e7a k\u0131saltmak i\u00e7in yolumuzun d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fc terzi d\u00fckkanlar\u0131n\u0131n hikayesini anlataca\u011f\u0131z bu yaz\u0131da.<\/div>\n

\u015eimdilerde tekstilin \u00fc\u00e7 ana kolu oldu\u011fundan bahsedebiliriz. \u0130lki seri \u00fcretim. Ulusal veya uluslararas\u0131 markalar, ucuz fiyatlar, bol se\u00e7enek, onlarca \u015fube, ve tabi ki hepsi birbirinin ayn\u0131 y\u00fczlerce binlerce giyim \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc. En fazla birka\u00e7 sezonluk \u00f6m\u00fcrleriyle, eskidik\u00e7e yenisinin al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131, trendlerinin vitrinlerinden takip edildi\u011fi, ma\u011fazalar\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra internetten de sat\u0131\u015f yapan, me\u015fhur indirimleriyle sat\u0131n ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ger\u00e7ek ederini kestirmekte zorland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z, ne \u015fartlar alt\u0131nda \u00fcretildi\u011fini pek de sorgulamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z, “m\u00fc\u015fteri memnuniyeti odakl\u0131” bu koca sekt\u00f6r g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde sistemin ana \u00e7arklar\u0131ndan biri.<\/p>\n

Tekstilin ikinci ve giderek pop\u00fclerle\u015fen di\u011fer kolunun tasar\u0131m \u00fcr\u00fcnler oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyebiliriz. Tekstille ilgili bir altyap\u0131s\u0131 olsun olmas\u0131n, \u015fark\u0131c\u0131s\u0131ndan mankenine, tasar\u0131mc\u0131 olman\u0131n ve tasar\u0131m \u00fcr\u00fcnler giymenin fiyakal\u0131 oldu\u011fu minik minik i\u015fleniyor beynimize ve haliyle t\u00fcketim al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131za. Pe\u015fpe\u015fe a\u00e7\u0131lan “design store”larda \u00fcr\u00fcnlere bi\u00e7ilen astronomik fiyatlar da cabas\u0131. Tabi ki hakk\u0131n\u0131 vererek tasar\u0131m yapan isimler ve “tasar\u0131m” tabirini sadece ticari ama\u00e7lar\u0131 i\u00e7in kullanmayanlar da var.<\/p>\n

\u00dcniversitelerin ve y\u00fcksekokullar\u0131n moda tasar\u0131m veya tekstil b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri bu sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn ilk iki koluna eleman yeti\u015ftirirken, giyim sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcn temel ta\u015f\u0131 olan \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc kol, yani terzilik usta \u00e7\u0131rak ili\u015fkisi ile meslek ediniliyor(mu\u015f).<\/p>\n

Terzilik de di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok el eme\u011fine dayal\u0131 sanat ve zanaat gibi g\u00fcn ge\u00e7tik\u00e7e kayboluyor. G\u00fcndelik hayat\u0131m\u0131zda en \u00f6nemli yerlerden birini i\u015fgal eden, giyinme ihtiyac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131layan bu sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn atas\u0131 olan terzili\u011fin neden yok oldu\u011funu ara\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Bir zamanlar terzilik…<\/h2>\n

Terzili\u011fin tarihi \u00e7ok eskilere dayan\u0131yor. \u0130lk \u00e7a\u011flardan beri insanlar\u0131n giyinme ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131lamak amac\u0131yla ba\u015flayan terzili\u011fin hikayesi, avlanmay\u0131 \u00f6\u011frenen insano\u011flunun hayvan derilerinden kendisine giysi yaparak so\u011fuktan korunmak ile ba\u015fl\u0131yor. \u00d6nceleri kemik par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131 i\u011fne olarak kullanan insanlar, deri par\u00e7alar\u0131n\u0131 birbirine ekleyerek giysiler yapmaya ba\u015flad\u0131lar. Sonralar\u0131 geli\u015fen kuma\u015f dokuma sanat\u0131, kuma\u015flar\u0131n kesilip bi\u00e7ilmesi, dikilip s\u00fcslenmesi ve insan v\u00fccudu formuna uygun hale getirilmesi ile terzilik geli\u015fmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

\"BirTerzilik mesle\u011fi alt\u0131n bilezikmi\u015f bir zamanlar. Usta terziler ayn\u0131 anda bir\u00e7ok \u00e7\u0131rak yeti\u015ftirmesine ra\u011fmen \u00e7\u0131rak se\u00e7erken mutlaka se\u00e7ici davran\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Elinin yatk\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131, g\u00f6zlerinin sa\u011flaml\u0131\u011f\u0131, dikkatli, sab\u0131rl\u0131 ve titiz olmas\u0131 bir \u00e7\u0131rak aday\u0131n\u0131 tezgah ba\u015f\u0131na ge\u00e7iren \u00f6nemli etkenlerdenmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn\u00fcn terzilerinin bundan onlarca y\u0131l \u00f6nce, ilkokulu bitirir bitirmez me\u015fhur terzilerin kendilerini yan\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan \u00e7\u0131raklar\u0131 aras\u0131na al\u0131p i\u015fi \u00f6\u011fretmeleri i\u00e7in yapmad\u0131klar\u0131 \u015fey kalmazm\u0131\u015f. Anne babalar ilkokulu bitiren \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n\u0131n meslek edinmesi i\u00e7in “Eti senin kemi\u011fi benim”der, ustalara emanet ederlermi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Terzi \u00e7\u0131raklar\u0131 d\u00fckkana ustalar\u0131ndan \u00f6nce gelir, temizli\u011fi yaparlarm\u0131\u015f. Ard\u0131ndan k\u00f6m\u00fcr \u00fct\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn k\u00fcl\u00fcn\u00fc d\u00f6ker, temizler, yeni k\u00f6zleri haz\u0131rlarlarm\u0131\u015f. En b\u00fcy\u00fck umutlar\u0131 ise ustalar\u0131ndan bir “aferin” veya m\u00fc\u015fteriden bah\u015fi\u015f koparmakm\u0131\u015f. \u00c7\u0131rakl\u0131ktan ustal\u0131\u011fa giden yol 10-15 y\u0131lda katedilirmi\u015f. Ustalar\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda yeti\u015fen \u00e7\u0131raklar, bunun zaman\u0131n g\u00fczide mesleklerinden oldu\u011funun bilincinde olarak, \u00e7\u0131rakl\u0131ktan kalfal\u0131\u011fa, kalfal\u0131ktan ustal\u0131\u011fa y\u00fckselere i\u015flerine devam ederlermi\u015f y\u0131llarca.<\/p>\n

Ge\u00e7mi\u015fte, \u00f6zellikle bayram \u00f6ncesi g\u00fcnlerde terzi d\u00fckkanlar\u0131 hi\u00e7 bo\u015f durmazm\u0131\u015f. Terziye gidip tak\u0131m elbise veya entari diktirmek bir gelenekmi\u015f. Zaten giysi edinmenin ba\u015fka yolu da yokmu\u015f o zamanlar; ya kendin dikeceksin ya terziye diktireceksin. Raflar kuma\u015flarla doluymu\u015f. Sipari\u015f \u00fcst\u00fcne sipari\u015f al\u0131r, \u00e7ift vardiya us\u00fcl\u00fcyle sabahlara kadar \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f terziler. \u0130yi de para kazan\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f bu i\u015ften, memur maa\u015f\u0131n\u0131n 3-4 kat\u0131 kadar.<\/p>\n

Mesle\u011fin ilk b\u00fcy\u00fck ustalar\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu az\u0131nl\u0131klar aras\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f, \u00f6zellikle Yahudi ve Ermeniler bu alanda pek maharetlilermi\u015f. \u00d6yle ustalar varm\u0131\u015f ki, hi\u00e7 makine kullanmadan el i\u011fnesiyle \u00f6yle diki\u015f dikerlermi\u015f ki makine diki\u015finden ay\u0131rt edilmezmi\u015f. 1952-54 aras\u0131nda ya\u015fanan toplumsal olaylar sonucunda az\u0131nl\u0131klar\u0131n \u00fclkeyi terk etmesi ile usta say\u0131s\u0131 azalm\u0131\u015f ve bu durum terzili\u011fe vurulan ilk darbe olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde terzilik<\/h2>\n

Bug\u00fcn\u00fcn terzi ustalar\u0131, \u00e7\u0131rakl\u0131k ve kalfal\u0131k yollar\u0131ndan ge\u00e7mi\u015f, bu mesle\u011fe \u00f6m\u00fcr adam\u0131\u015f insanlar. Mesle\u011fin devam\u0131ndan endi\u015feli ve \u00e7\u0131rak adaylar\u0131n\u0131n ilgisizli\u011finden \u015fikayet\u00e7iler. Yine de anlay\u0131\u015fla kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yorlar durumu, zira vaziyet meydanda: terzi esnaf\u0131 vergisini, sigortas\u0131n\u0131, faturalar\u0131n\u0131, d\u00fckkan kiras\u0131n\u0131 nas\u0131l \u00f6deyece\u011fini \u015fa\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f durumda.<\/p>\n

Hal b\u00f6yle olunca terzilik mesle\u011fine eskiden duyulan ilgiden eser kalm\u0131yor. Terzi d\u00fckkanlar\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015facak \u00e7\u0131rak ve kalfa bulunamamas\u0131 hem mesle\u011fin devam\u0131n\u0131 riske at\u0131yor hem de ustalar\u0131n eleman ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 giderememesine neden oluyor. Ustalar kendi ustalar\u0131ndan \u00f6grendikleri terzili\u011fin inceliklerini, p\u00fcf noktalar\u0131n\u0131, adab\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011fretecek, bu bilgi birikimini aktaracak yeni nesillere hasretler. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn terzi ustalar\u0131 bu mesle\u011fin son nesli belki de.<\/p>\n

Son y\u0131llarda terziler sipari\u015f \u00fczerine \u00fcretim yerine tadilat i\u015fleriyle u\u011fra\u015f\u0131yorlar. Hatta art\u0131k tadilat i\u015fleri de giderek azal\u0131yor. T\u00fcketiciler bir giysiyi onarmak yerine yenisini almay\u0131 tercih ediyorlar. Bu da esnaf\u0131 daha da zor durumda b\u0131rak\u0131yor. Ancak yine de, ma\u011fazalardan al\u0131nan giysilerin giyenlerin \u00fczerine tam oturmas\u0131 i\u00e7in gereken tadilatlar, t\u00fcketicilerin yolunun terzi d\u00fckkanlar\u0131na d\u00fc\u015fmesine neden oluyor.<\/p>\n

Terziye sipari\u015f vermek<\/h2>\n

E\u011fer hala varsa, mahallenizdeki terzi d\u00fckkan\u0131na u\u011fray\u0131p bir giysi sipari\u015f edin. Kalitesini ve \u00f6mr\u00fcnu seri \u00fcretim \u00fcr\u00fcnlerinizle k\u0131yaslay\u0131n. Sadece tadilat i\u015fleri i\u00e7in de\u011fil bizzat \u00fcretim amac\u0131yla da terzi d\u00fckkan\u0131na yolunuzu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrmeyi deneyin.<\/p>\n

\u00dcstelik ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131z olan giysiyi tam da istedi\u011finiz \u015fekilde sipari\u015f usul\u00fcyle elde edebilece\u011finizi unutmay\u0131n. \u0130stedi\u011finiz renk, kuma\u015f, ek bir cep, akl\u0131n\u0131za ne gelirse… El eme\u011finin k\u0131ymetini ve size \u00f6zel \u00fcretilmi\u015f bir giysiyi kullanman\u0131n keyfini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131n.<\/p>\n

\"TerziyeDiyelim ki terziye bir giysi sipari\u015fi verdiniz… Neler olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 biliyor musunuz? \u00d6ncelikle kuma\u015fa karar verilecek. Terzinizin elindeki kuma\u015flardan se\u00e7ebilir veya d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan kuma\u015f temin edip terzinize g\u00f6t\u00fcrebilirsiniz. Sonras\u0131nda mezura ile boy, basen, bel, g\u00f6\u011f\u00fcs, kol ve bacak boyu \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcn\u00fcz al\u0131n\u0131r. Terziniz istedi\u011finiz modele ve \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fclerinize g\u00f6re bir kal\u0131p \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131r ve kuma\u015f\u0131 bi\u00e7er, yani keser.<\/div>\n

Kuma\u015f bi\u00e7ilip kal\u0131ba g\u00f6re birle\u015ftirildikten sonra terziniz sizi ilk provaya \u00e7a\u011f\u0131racakt\u0131r. Bu provaya terzi jargonunda “\u00e7\u0131plak prova” denir. \u0130kinci prova “telal\u0131 prova”d\u0131r. \u00dc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc ve genelde son olan provada art\u0131k giysi meydana \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131r, son r\u00f6tu\u015flar yap\u0131l\u0131r. Giysiniz haz\u0131r oldu\u011funda teslim al\u0131r, g\u00fcle g\u00fcle giyersiniz.<\/p>\n

Terzili\u011fe merak salanlar ne yapmal\u0131?<\/h2>\n
\"Terzili\u011fe Gelecekte sekt\u00f6rler nas\u0131l evrilir bilinmez ama bi\u00e7ki, diki\u015f bilmenin de kimseye bir zarar\u0131 dokunmaz.\u00a0\u00a0 Son zamanlarda \u00e7o\u011fumuz i\u00e7in \u00fcretmek, \u00fcretmeyi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek bile o kadar heyecan verici ki… Kim bilir bunu uygulamaya ge\u00e7irmek, hatta “\u00dczerindekini nereden ald\u0131n?” sorusuna “Ben diktim!” cevab\u0131n\u0131 vermek ne g\u00fczel bir duygudur.<\/div>\n

E\u011fer diki\u015fe merakl\u0131ysan\u0131z, Halk E\u011fitim Merkezleri ve Terzi Esnaf Odalar\u0131’nca d\u00fczenlenen Bi\u00e7ki, Diki\u015f ve Terzilik e\u011fitimleri hem meslek hem de hobi edinmenizi sa\u011flayabilir. Sonra da dilerseniz bir terzinin yan\u0131nda \u00e7\u0131rak olarak yeti\u015febilir, i\u015fi ustas\u0131ndan \u00f6\u011frenebilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

Yaz\u0131 dizimizin di\u011fer b\u00f6l\u00fcmleri;
D\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlenmi\u015f Hikayeler 1: Hal\u0131 Dokuma Sanat\u0131<\/a>
D\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlenmi\u015f Hikayeler 2: Cam \u0130\u015fleme Sanat\u0131<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Terzilik de di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok el eme\u011fine dayal\u0131 sanat ve zanaat gibi g\u00fcn ge\u00e7tik\u00e7e kayboluyor. G\u00fcndelik hayat\u0131m\u0131zda en \u00f6nemli yerlerden birini i\u015fgal eden, giyinme ihtiyac\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131layan bu sekt\u00f6r\u00fcn atas\u0131 olan terzili\u011fin neden yokoldu\u011funu ara\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131k.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":561,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-360","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-hikayeler"],"yoast_head":"\nD\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmlenmi\u015f Hikayeler 3: Terzilik - Merakl\u0131s\u0131 \u0130\u00e7in - Hobiler, Fikirler<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Terzilik de di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok el eme\u011fine dayal\u0131 sanat ve zanaat gibi g\u00fcn ge\u00e7tik\u00e7e kayboluyor. 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